Wednesday, August 11, 2010

The Kimberly Process

Conflict diamonds came to the attention of the world media during the extremely brutal conflict in Sierra Leone in the 1990s. The UN, governments, the diamond industry and non-governmental organizations (such as Global Witness, Amnesty International and Partnership Africa Canada), recognized the need for a global system to prevent conflict diamonds from entering the legitimate diamond supply chain and thus helping to fund conflict. They developed an agreement called the Kimberley Process, which requires participating governments to ensure that each shipment of rough diamonds be exported/imported in a secure container, accompanied by a uniquely numbered, government-validated certificate stating that the diamonds are from sources free of conflict.
Under the Kimberley Process, diamond shipments can only be exported and imported within co-participant countries in the Kimberley Process. No uncertified shipments of rough diamonds will be permitted to enter or leave a participant's country. This ring-fences conflict diamonds and as such ensures they are unable to enter the legitimate diamond supply chain and thus, cannot be used for illegitimate purposes.
In November 2002, 52 governments ratified and adopted the Kimberley Process Certification System, which was fully implemented in August of 2003.
Today, 71 governments, in partnership with the diamond industry and NGOs, are committed and legally bound to the UN-mandated process. Kimberley Process participants currently account for well over 99% of the global production of rough diamonds.
Kimberley Process participants undergo periodic reviews, along with peer monitoring to ensure compliance. Furthermore, all rough diamond sales are independently audited, and are also subject to separate governmental regulations. Any country that is found not to be in compliance can be sanctioned by the Kimberley Process.
All countries that are participants of the Kimberley Process are closely monitored. A recent Kimberley Process Review Mission to Brazil noted anomalies and weaknesses within the country's procedures. The Brazilian Government took definitive action by suspending its official exports of rough diamonds and is in the process of working with the Kimberley Process to remedy the situation as soon as possible.
Kimberley Process Requirements
  • Each shipment of rough diamonds crossing an international border must be:
    • Transported in a tamper-resistant container
    • Accompanied by a government-validated Kimberley Process Certificate
  • Each certificate must be resistant to forgery, uniquely numbered and describe the shipment's contents
  • The shipment can only be exported to another Kimberley Process participant country
  • It is illegal for uncertified shipments of rough diamonds to either be imported or exported by a Kimberley Process participant country
  • Failure to comply with these procedures can lead to confiscation or rejection of parcels and/or criminal sanctions
  • If any concerns arise regarding a country's adherence to the Kimberley Process, they are investigated and dealt with at an intergovernmental level
For more information visit http://www.diamondfacts.org/

The Timur Ruby

The Timur Ruby

The Timur Ruby is not a ruby but a spinel, although until 1851, it was thought to be the largest known ruby. It weighs 352.50 carats and ranks second in size behind the 398.72-carat spinel in the Imperial Russian Crown. It is not faceted, but retains its original baroque shape, similar to the Black Prince's Ruby, which weighs around 170 carats.
The Timur Ruby has a history paralleling that of the Koh-I-Noor Diamond, having been seized by Nadir Shah of Persia in 1739 when he invaded India. As with the Koh-I-Noor, the East India Company took possession of the gem in 1849 and sent it to England. It went unrecognized there and together with three other spinels was listed in the official catalogue as: "Short necklace of four very large spinelle rubies."
The stone remained in obscurity for 60 years before it was recognized from the inscription it bears. These inscriptions are among the most fascinating aspects of this gem, and gives further insight into its history. The longest inscription is in Persian, written in Arabic script. A literal translation reads: "This (is) the ruby from the twenty-five thousand genuine jewels of the King of Kings the Sultan Sahib Qiran which is in the year 1153 (1740 AD) from (the collection of) jewels of Hindustan reached this place (Isfahan)." The remaining five inscriptions are the names of some of the emperors who had it in their possession, and the corresponding dates, the first being Akbar Shah Jahangir Shah, 1021 (1612 AD). It is thought that the gem once bore the dates of three earlier owners.
The long inscription tells us that this spinel is the famous stone that fell into the hands of the tartar conqueror Timur, known to European history as Tamerlane, but to the Muslim world as Sahib Qiran, when he captured Delhi in 1398. The emperor Shah Jahan had the jewel from 1628-58. He built the famous Peacock Throne in Delhi and embellished it with a number of gems, including the Timur Ruby. Nadir Shah invaded India and captured Delhi in 1739 and took the Timur Ruby back with him to Persia. From that point, the history of the Timur Ruby parallels that of the Koh-I-Noor Diamond.

The Midnight Star Ruby

The Midnight Star Ruby

This 116.75-carat deep purplish-red star ruby is part of the New York Museum of Natural History's collection, along with the Star of India, a very large star sapphire.

Tuesday, August 10, 2010

De Beers' 'Millenium Blue' sells for $6 million

Apr 8, 2010
Hong Kong--A 5.16-carat fancy vivid blue diamond, once part of De Beers' Millennium Jewels Collection, sold for $6.4 million at Sotheby's Hong Kong on Wednesday, as diamonds continued to show strength in the auction market.

According to a news release from the auction house, Moussaieff of London emerged as the winning bidder for the pear-shaped diamond, which sold for well over its estimated sale price of $4.1 million to $5.1 million following "intense" bidding.

The sought-after stone was once one of the 11 blue diamonds in the Millennium Jewels Collection, a group of rare diamonds selected by Andrew Coxon, president of the De Beers Institute of Diamonds, to mark the turn of the millennium.

Wednesday's sale of the 5.16-carat millennium blue marks the first time one of these stones has been put up for sale since the diamonds were placed with private collectors in 2000.

"The timeless beauty of a De Beers-selected Millennium blue diamond will be remembered long after its near record-setting price has been forgotten," Coxon said in a press release from De Beers in connection with the sale. "Personally, I wish I could have bought it back for De Beers but professionally speaking, I sincerely congratulate the new owners and I am happy that the new owners appreciated this particular De Beers-selected diamond."

Overall, Sotheby's "Magnificent Jewels and Jadeite Spring Sale 2010" garnered $52.4 million, achieving the highest-ever dollar amount for a sale of this category conducted by Sotheby's Hong Kong, according to the release from Sotheby's.

Other top lots snapped up at Wednesday's sale include a diamond rivière necklace containing 50 D-color, internally flawless diamonds, which sold for to a private buyer from Hong Kong for $6.7 million, exceeding its estimate of $4.1 million to $5.1 million.

In addition, a private buyer from Southeast Asia paid $5.5 million for a jadeite and diamond necklace, estimated to garner between $4.9 million and $6.4 million, and a 33.31-carat, pear-shaped D color internally flawless white diamond pendant garnered $2.5 million.

Quek Chin Yeow, head of the Sotheby's Hong Kong jewelry department and deputy chairman of Sotheby's Asia, said in the release that Wednesday's record-setting sale demonstrates that perfection and rarity are what drive buyers and collectors in this market.

"Our top lots ... provided the very special and the very rare and were the objects of vigorous competition from bidders across Asia and the world, both private collection and trade," he said. "These results were the latest in a series of triumphs for Sotheby's Hong Kong and achieved strong prices for white diamonds, colored diamonds, jadeite and pearls."

Next month in Geneva, Sotheby's will put another blue diamond up on the auction block.

According to the release, a 5.02-carat, pear-shaped fancy vivid blue diamond mounted alongside a 5.42-carat colorless diamond of the same shape is expected to fetch between $4 million and $7 million at Sotheby's "Evening Sale of Magnificent Jewels," scheduled for May 11 at the Beau-Rivage hotel in Geneva.

Here comes the millennial bride

In addition to seeking out unique styles, millennials don't mind waiting to get exactly what they want and are more likely to value customer service over brand names when it comes to engagement rings. This engagement ring from Gottlieb & Sons can be crafted in 14- or 18-karat white or yellow gold, platinum or palladium.

By Michelle Graff
Aug 10, 2010
New York—Millennials, the 'Net Generation, Echo Boomers, Generation Y ... the nation's 20-something adults are part of a large generation to which numerous monikers have been applied. For jewelers, though, the singular summation is this: They are a group of consumers who are primed to have one big impact on the bridal market in the coming years.

Jewelers just need to understand how these young adults think. For example, individuals in this age group tend to reject items that they feel everybody else has and, raised in an age of Internet shopping, they are not averse to waiting if it means getting exactly what they want.

"These are the children of the baby boomers," says industry analyst Ken Gassman, who has given presentations on the millennials and the bridal market at industry trade shows throughout the year. "Call them what you want. We call them bridal customers."

All that is required to understand why this generation is going to be so important to retailers in the coming years is a brief history lesson and some simple math.

Gassman says that when it came time for the baby boomers, the giant-sized generation of Americans born between 1946 and 1964, to have children of their own they, quite logically, produced another large generation. Data from the National Center for Health Statistics gathered by Gassman shows that U.S. birth rates began to accelerate in the late 1970s, peaking at about 4 million in 1991 and mirroring the boom produced by their parents two generations ago.

While it may be hard for baby boomers to accept—after all it seems like only yesterday that they were heading to San Francisco with flowers in their hair—the time has come for their offspring to start popping the question and heading down the aisle.

Gassman says that while the dates assigned to the millennial generation vary, he has in his own research confined the range to those born between 1979 and 1998, meaning the eldest members of this generation are 31 and the youngest are just 12. Factor into this equation the fact that the average marrying age in the United States, according to the U.S. Census Bureau, is 27.6 for men and 26 for women, and that adds up to a lot of potential engagement ring customers coming down the pike.

Like any generation, Gassman says the millennials' values differ from that of their parents. One key difference jewelers need to grasp is that this generation is not concerned about "keeping up with the Joneses." Instead of eyeing a 2-carat engagement ring just to one-up their best friend's 1-carat rock, millennials are more interested in having something that is uniquely their own.

"It's about custom," Gassman says. "What their neighbors think about their engagement ring is less important than what they think of their engagement ring. That's the exact opposite of boomers, who wanted to outdo each other."

Retailers need to up their selection of bridal jewelry, Gassman says, whether that means having a virtual selection that can be displayed on an in-store flat-screen TV or investing in "brass-and-glass" inventories from companies such as Unique Settings, Overnight Mountings or Gabriel & Co. Made of base metal and cubic zirconia, the pieces are stand-ins that let bridal consumers see samples before buying.

"The young consumers need to see a broad selection before they're willing to plunk their money down," Gassman says.

The next generation's desire for customization is not lost on Jerry Gottlieb, vice president of jewelry manufacturer Gottlieb & Sons.

Toward the end of 2009, Gottlieb decided to retool the marketing message driving his Cleveland-based company, which his father Saul started in 1949, right around the time the baby boom generation got its start. Gottlieb hired public relations expert Bill Daddi, of Daddi Brand Communications, to do some research on the current engagement ring market. The research mirrored what Gassman uncovered: that millennials strive for uniqueness.

The results were no big shock to Gottlieb, who has both professional and personal experience with this generation. At home, he's the father of three millennials, ages 26, 22 and 17.

Gottlieb says that over the past two or three years, he has noticed an uptick in the number of his retail partners who ask for slight alterations to the designs offered by Gottlieb & Sons.

"I see it in my kids, too," Gottlieb says of the millennials' penchant for custom-made. "The millennials want everything customized to their own lifestyle."

While the company has always had the ability to customize, Gottlieb says its new marketing program, "Wear Your Love Story," emphasizes this offering and provides retail partners with millennial-appropriate co-op billboard and magazine ads, as well as in-store sales material. The literature centers on sharing the engagement stories of fictional couples, such as a couple of four years that got engaged in Paris despite a sprained ankle and a nervous potential fiancé.

The idea: to engage viewers and get them thinking about how they can tell their own love story through an engagement ring from Gottlieb & Sons purchased at their local jewelry store.

Gottlieb stresses that his manufacturing company has no interest in selling directly to consumers.

"The consumer doesn't really know the brand," he says. "They know their local retailer. We're not interested at all in dealing with the consumer. We want to drive business to our retail partners."

Also on tap for the Love Story program is a Gottlieb & Sons Facebook page and Web site, both set to launch this fall, where consumers can log on and share their real-life love stories.

"The ring tells their story," Gottlieb says.

And, in the end, it seems, that very personal type of story is what really matters to the millennials. 


Let's stay together

Ken Gassman says that another trait of the millennial generation is a tendency to be family-oriented. He sees the divorce rate—which hit a high point in the 1980s—slowing down in the coming years. Though jewelers might miss out on the chance for second-time-around engagement rings, there will be more milestone anniversaries and life-cycle events, which can be celebrated with jewelry.

Below is a look at the divorce rate per 1,000 married U.S. women between 1960 and 2005.

1960 = 9.2%
1965 = 10.6%
1970 = 14.9%
1975 = 20.3%
1980 = 22.6%
1985 = 21.7%
1990 = 20.9%
1995 = 19.8%
2000 = 18.8%
2005 = 17.7%

Source: StatAbstract

Data: Retailers have a sweet spot for silver | National Jeweler

Data: Retailers have a sweet spot for silver | National Jeweler

Monday, August 9, 2010

Diamond Tattoo?

Diamond Tattoo Breaks Price Records

One South African jeweler is bringing attention to his brand by creating the most expensive tattoo in history - out of diamonds.

Diamonds have been used to create everything from fake eyelashes and tooth ornaments to surgical instruments and facial scrub. But one South African jeweler is bringing bling to the world of ink with a dazzling diamond tattoo for the record books.
Shimansky jewelers decorated South African model and Shimansky brand ambassador, Minki van der Westhuizen, with 612 Shimansky Ideal Cut .5 carat diamonds to create the most expensive tattoo in the world. The skin art is worth a whopping $7.2 million South African rands - or $924,000 USD.
The diamonds were attached to the skin using a water-based adhesive and 8 hours of manpower. The luxury jeweler has considered making similar tattoos available at all of their eight South African or four international locations, according to Luxist.
But that's not all the bedazzling Shimanky is up to. To celebrate the World Cup, they created a five-pound diamond-encrusted soccer ball out of hundreds of black and white gems (visit our blogger, The Jewelry Insider for more). And the price? About 1/3 of Ronaldo's salary.